As the name suggests, this restaurant on the roof of the historic Misir apartment block on Istiklal has magnificent 360-degree views of the city. The spacious dining area is a...

A'jia's remote location - a boutique hotel in a converted yali on the shores of the Bosphorus - is actually an advantage. Far from the hustle of the city centre, the waterfront...

Though it's a European-style bistro, Amedros also does good Ottoman dishes. The house special is testi kebabi, lamb roasted with vegetables in a sealed clay pot that is cracked...

It may be a trek to Edirnekapi, but it's worth it for this one-of-a-kind restaurant, in the eponymous hotel next door, specialising in authentic Ottoman food. Authentic means...

Once you get past that name - the Turkish word for 'love' drawn out into a lisping 'assk' - this place has a lot to recommend it. To find it, follow the unmarked staircase down...

This bowling cafe is one of the most popular among young people in Istanbul. There are also pool tables, and a cafe serving fast food and snacks.

A modest, single-room venue just off Tunel Square, Badehane began as an eaterie, but quickly evolved into one of the most popular bars in town. Smarter after a recent...

Most visitors staying around Sultanahmet head to Kumkapi for fish, unaware that there's a far better option on their doorstep. In fact, Balikci Sabahattin is one of the few...

With spectacular views of the original Bosphorus bridge and floodlit Ortakoy mosque, Banyan comes into its own on summer nights, and enjoys a far superior location to its...

With its bright colours, velvet furnishings and an eye-catching floor piece of a nude young Norma Jean Baker, 5.Kat boasts one of the city's most striking interiors. As its...

his relative newcomer is giving its upmarket neighbours a run for their money. Dinner will set you back about YTL90-YTL120. Try a frozen watermelon cocktail (YTL25) on the...

Most meyhanes have two or three floors of indoor dining, sometimes with a roof terrace. They don't differ much in terms of food and prices, but everyone has their favourites....

This brasserie succeeds in recreating the French bohemian vibe with its dark, mirrored interior, high ceilings offset by a huge chandelier, and posters for local events...

Fans of colonial watering holes tend to head for the bar at the Pera Palas Hotel (currently closed for renovations); that's because they don't know about the Buyuk Londra....

Behind the Galatasaray Lycee, this fabulous 19th- century building was originally a school for the Italian Workers' Association. Beautifully converted into a glamorous bar and...

Most of the little local eateries on Guneslibahce are indistinguishable, but ciya is so good - and so successful - that it is taking over most of them. ciya Sofrasi specialises...

Cumhuriyet Meyhanesi, once frequented by Ataturk, is notable for its fasil musicians.

On one of the smaller streets behind Cihangir's main drag, this juice bar is the perfect antidote to Beyoglu's boozy bars. Choose from around 40 fruit and veggie cocktails,...

Drolly named after the cafe's designer, Ali, this relatively new addition to Ortakoy's nightlife absorbs the overflow from its noisier neighbour, the House Cafe, especially for...

The former soup kitchens of the Suleymaniye Mosque complex now turn out more varied fare. But if the present menu runs to several pages, the food is still canteen cooking -...

The Grand Bazaar has a few little places to stop for a cay, but there's one place in the Old Bazaar, or Cevahir Bedesten, that stands out. Divan is a simulated slice of the...

Don't let the entrance via the dismal lobby of the Villa Zurich Hotel put you off: Doga Balik is a splendid neighbourhood fish restaurant. The dining rooms on the seventh floor...

Istanbul is not exactly brimming with Indian restaurants, and this little gem in the heart of Sultanahmet might be the closest you'll get to eating authentic dishes from the...

The neighbourhood around the Galata Tower is getting a major facelift: streets have been repaved and cafes have spread their tables across the spruced up square surrounding the...

The most touristy of the many narghile cafes on the pedestrianised street north of Divan Yolu. Avoid the fruity tobaccos.

In the idyllic courtyard of an Ottoman seminary, Erenler's low tables and benches are shaded with ivy-hung trellises. Despite signs advertising 'Magic Waterpipe Garden', few...

On a quiet back street near Nuruosmaniye Mosque, just off Nuruosmaniye Caddesi, this cafe's modern design blends surprisingly well with its antiquated surroundings. With a...

Down the hill from the Galata Tower, this hideaway is also known as the 'Old British Jail' (Eski Ingiliz Karakolu), owing to its former incarnation as a prison of the British...

Popular with locals, this unusual eaterie buried in the backstreets near Taksim Square offers Anatolian eating at its best. Set on six floors, the place feels like a showcase...

Arnavutkoy's coolest new venue is housed in aconverted Ottoman yali, which stands out from the throng of nearby fish restaurants with its burgundy facade. If you can't grab one...

One of the oldest restaurants in Istanbul, Haci Abdullah is deservedly famous for traditional Ottoman fare. Three old-school dining rooms are brightened by a few contemporary...

In addition to being a world-class museum, the Rahmi Koc boasts a couple of excellent restaurants in the Cafe du Levant, a fancy French bistro, and Halat, with quayside dining...

Right on Eminonu square, Hamdi is a hot favourite among Istanbul natives, particularly business lunchers and carniverous fans of south-eastern Turkish food. Hamdi serves meat...

The original Hunkar opened in 1950 in the far-flung, working-class Fatih neighbourhood. This new offshoot in Nisantasi has taken the old-school Ottoman brand upmarket. Diners...

This Egyptian-themed bar, with wall paintings and statues, is incongruously located in a converted three-storey townhouse. The top-floor wine bar holds regular tastings...

The first and only Irish pub in Istanbul. The decor is predictably cliched, but the punters are a mixed bag of worldly Turks, expats and tourists who come for the decent range...

A continental-style cafe owned by local Magnum photographer Ara Guler, whose evocative black and white shots of Istanbul adorn the walls and place mats. In fine weather, tables...

Kaktus' elegant dark-wood interior owes a great deal to the classic French cafe. Its patrons do their best to recreate the ambience of a Godard movie by chain-smoking and...

Kannat is a perfect example of a historical lokanta that appears to have changed little since it was founded in 1933. Equally popular at both lunch and dinner, the vast menu of...

Krependeki Imroz, one of the oldest meyhanes, deserves a mention. Imroz is the Greek name for Gokceada, one of the Aegean islands, and home to the Greek owners.

Also known as 'Little Haghia Sophia' because of its resemblance to Justinian's great cathedral. Like its larger namesake, it was originally a church, in this case dedicated to...

Opposite Tunel station, an elaborate iron gate leads to an enchanting 19th-century arcade overgrown with potted plants. Of the handful of cafes lucky enough to share this...

A more sophisticated alternative to its popular predecessor around the corner on Kumbaraci Sokak. The new premises, on the sixth floor of the Richmond Hotel on Istiklal...

Currently the place in Cihangir where you're most likely to have to queue for a table, Leyla is wildly popular at peak times. The cafe is unpretentiously cool, with a relaxed,...

It's located in the distinctly unglamorous Istanbul Convention and Exhibition Centre, but the plush interior is a world apart: geometric leather banquettes, low-slung Japanese...

Once one of the hippest eateries in town, Lokal has graduated to classic status. On a tiny side-street off Asmalimescit, Lokal is easy to locate thanks to the films projected...

The tiny facade facing Tunel Square is deceptive: inside is a long, lofty space with Wedgwood blue walls. Famous for its selection of coffees and resident grey cat, Lokal Tunel...

Lokanta roughly translates into English as 'canteen', appropriate given the plain decorative style. No matter, it's all about the food, notable for top-quality ingredients and...

On the first floor of the new Sofa Hotel in Nisantasi, Longtable is in many ways a typical hotel restaurant: classic decor, exclusive clientele, intuitive service, very high...

Tucked away behind the fancy waterside eateries in Bebek, this delightful eaterie is worth seeking out. (Head for the Kucuk Bebek end of the high street and follow the steps...

This sunken cafe beside an arcade of tourist shops is very pleasant when the shops close and locals descend. There are nightly performances of Turkish classical music and...

This famous Italian chain is always crammed with children. Staff are down-to-earth and the atmosphere's casual. It's noisy, but kids love it. The restaurant also offers highchairs.

On the roof garden of the 18-storey Marmara Pera hotel, Mikla is the latest project of Turco-Finnish chef Mehmet Gurs (formerly of Lokanta) and is already one Istanbul's most...

Arguably the best pizzeria in town, this cosy eatery in the heart of Cihangir is a big hit with resident foreigners. Selen and Elif, who both have backgrounds in textiles,...

A cut above many of Sultanahmet's more slapdash establishments. With wooden floors carpeted with old kilims, copper platters and creaking stairs between the restaurant's three...

In the Sakip Sabanci Museum in Emirgan, Muzedechanga is much more than a museum cafe. Try to come here for lunch if you're anywhere in the area. A spin-off from the acclaimed...

Vegetarian restaurants are rare in Istanbul, and even this pretender serves several chicken dishes. The set lunch is great value and the dinner menu includes a soup and salad...

On the rooftop of the Nu Pera building, Nu Teras is the epitome of hip Istanbul - with the backdrop of a stunning view of the Golden Horn. The area behind the bar is given over...

An essential stop for fans of the Orient Express and Agatha Christie, this time-warp is bang in the centre of Sirkeci station, the final stop of the world's most famous train....

Not a bad place for lunch if you're shopping in the Egyptian Bazaar. Occupying a wonderful set of domed rooms above the bazaar entrance, Pandeli is very much the essence of...

Over a century old, Pano is an Istanbul institution. This atmospheric wine bar is like an updated take on a typical Greek taverna, with wood-panelled interior and rows of giant...

The uncluttered decor and gallery-style mezzanine create a sense of space where there isn't much at all. Ornate mirrors and a single George Grosz print set the tone. This is a...

On a hilltop with a stunning vantage point over the Golden Horn, this cafe is dedicated to French naval officer Pierre Loti, who was so obsessed with Istanbul that he took to...

A supremely stylish affair, Poseidon serves superior seafood at vertiginous prices. Sampling the meze menu will hike up the bill, but specalities like stuffed calamari,...

A landmark in hippie history. In the pre-Lonely Planet days of the late '60s and early '70s, the Pudding Shop (founded 1957) was a bottleneck for all the overland traffic...

Established in 1954, this upmarket meyhane is a great starting point to immerse yourself in meze culture and acquire a taste for raki. Gravel voiced Refik Arslan still meets...

Founded by White Russians who relocated to Istanbul in the wake of the Soviet revolution, Rejans was reputedly one of Ataturk's favourite restaurants. Left-wing Turkish...

Rumeli's food is far superior to the tourist fodder served at the the cluster of establishments at the bottom of Divan Yolu. A former printworks with a cavernous interior of...

Despite competition from newer, shinier seafood restaurants, this place is always packed. The best tables are on the waterfront deck, with a view of the hilltop castle of...

This new cafe-restaurant is an instant hit with Nisantasi's most stylish residents, although entering the undersized venue on Atiye Sokak you might wonder why. With a bar, a...

Sarnic means 'cistern' in Turkish, and the trump card here is the setting. Housed in one of the area's Roman cisterns, the subterranean space is adorned with pillars, coats of...

Formerly the subject of rave reviews, Seasons has begun falling short of its reputation. Still a high-end Sultanahmet establishment with an international menu, it can't compare...

In summer, tables are laid out in this big hilly garden overlooking the Bosphorus, which also has a play area with swings, slides and a big lawn. The restaurant serves decent...

In a converted house next door to Ortakoy mosque, Sedir is a laid-back choice for all-day dining or a coffee break, although conversation is punctuated by the wail of the...

Sefahathane's obscure location in Atlas Pasaji, does not stop it being perennially popular. During the day, customers grab a coffee before shopping or catching a movie next...

This relaxed refuge off Istiklal is one of the most stylish all-day cafe-bars anywhere in Istanbul. Hipsters hang out in the retro front room, where low seating and low...

Traditionally, Cihangir's favourite hangout has been the cluster of teahouses by the mosque, where local loafers can spend a whole day or evening ensconced beneath the plane...

A meyhane maybe, but très genteel. This cosy local haunt feels like someone's front room - someone with money, taste and a fine old house. There are mustard walls, exposed...

Sortie has successfully replicated the Bosphorus bling formula. Like many of the area's neighbouring clubs, It's a nightspot that is well known for the collection of pricey...

Under new management, Istanbul's first gay cafe not only offers smart decor, strong espresso and homemade Turkish sweets, but the chance for gay travellers to get an update on...

A gorgeous setting for a romantic tryst - a tree-lined terrace set on a hilltop high above the Bosphorus. The menu is an unlikely but well-executed mix of Californian fusion,...

Burgers, hot dogs and fancy ice-cream desserts. There is a dedicated kids' menu.

With its industrial-chic interior and blissful terrace right on the Bosphorus, the Ortakoy branch is by far the most popular of The House Cafe's three venues (the other two...

With its modern-traditional scarlet decor and tatami rooms, Tokyo is a hit with the local Japanese. The menu includes dozens of noodle, rice and teriyaki dishes, plus good...

Someone to impress? Something to celebrate? Or simply feel like living out a Sinatra song? Ulus 29 fits the bill. Thanks to yet another spectacular hillside setting (just above...

Despite being eclipsed by newer, trendier joints, Vogue has managed to retain its stylish clientele and high standards. Though curiously situated on the top floor of an office...

An update on the meyhane that's very popular with fashionable young Turks. Zarifi's extensive menu covers all the classic meze and grilled meats, as well as Ottoman dishes and...

Probably the best vegetarian restaurant in Istanbul (though purists may be infuriated by the fact that chicken makes an occasional appearance on the menu). The setting is urban...

Despite the gruff bouncers manning the red velvet entrance, Zoe is actually a relatively laid-back bar/restaurant that puts equal emphasis on food and drink. It's one of many...